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You will have to fab up a bracket to move them over to the right, that is what I did. Some folks also cap it off.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
Got any pics?
I didn't think it could be capped off, is the PCV valve good enough to handle vapors?
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I never capped mine off, I was saying I know some others had.
Here is one with COP's installed if you decide to go that route later.
Miata Engine Capri Valve Cover.jpg
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this was the only photo I could find of mine, this was on my 1.8L motor
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
I knocked out the vent, tapped the hole and screwed in a bolt. Then drilled and tapped a new hole for an AN hose fitting on the side.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
Thanks for your responses. It looks like the pic with the cops just has the rear port blocked off. I will eventually go with COPS, when I am fast enough to grab a set off someone, they sell like hotcakes when listed.
sdemo45, what did you do about baffles? I don't think they would make a huge difference, but I figured I'd ask.
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4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone
I know a thing or two about this set up. The Capri valve cover has two ports one in the back of the cylinder head and one in the front as you see on the picture. The one in the back is located right at the coilpack
About how you go to modifying it.
Two options
if you are using COP |coil packs| the best set up if to imitate Speedworks design, look at his build thread, he enlarged the ports and added two big 10an fitting to each ports then run line to a catch can. Make sure the lines go up as much as possible to trap the oil, only the oil fumes should exit the valve cover to the catch catch can.
Option number 2 if you are using the factory valve cover you can remove the baffle on the exhaust side and block that port. on the intake side where the PVC is located remove the PVC open and enlarge that source and use a 10an source to a catch can, make sure the line goes up as high as possible to trap the oil back in the valve cover. only the oil fumes should exit to the catch can. Just look pictures of my engine bay and you'll get the picture.
Option number three.
use a set up somewhat similar to the Mazdaspeed, a recirculated set up. which pretty much send the the oil and oil fumes back to the oil pan. The point of all these modifications is to prevent recirculating oil back to the intake manifold. your engine will run cleaner and idles improves dramatically, trust me it does.
last note, the trick to all valve cover modifications when adding a catch can is to run big lines 8an to 10an *the bigger the better to slow down decrease pressure oil exiting the valve cover and as high as possible to trap the oil back to the valve cover.
I hope that everything I wrote made sense.
Last edited by Hyper; 02-20-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
I ended up tapping the rear port and putting a 1/4" NPT x 3/8" ID hose barb fitting, then running the hose to the front OEM location, it was tight at the coil but fit. For the PCV valve I went to NAPA and got a nice molded 90 that the valve slipped into and turned the OEM hose so it ran in the proper direction, slipped the PVC valve into the hose and ran it to the larger port on the front of the valve cover.
Its all going to change as I scored a set of COPS the other day and the parts are all here for my turbo, now I have to find the time between home life and work to get it all installed and tuned.
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4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone
show me a pic f the valve cover, if you plugged the rear source did you remove the baffle? Show me a pic please
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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Idling - Listen to it purr...
I have the same cover and I vent it to a catch can.
Just plug the OEM ports
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