Adding a Power Outlet

[Demon I Am]

So, I'm tired of not having a way to charge my phone. The stock "cigar lighter" is dead, and a new one from Rosenthall is $30. The location for that is not ideal for charging things, as the cord hangs around the shifter. I do not like cords hanging out all over the place, so I need to add an additional power outlet to the car.

Looking at my options, there was 3 places where a power outlet would be beneficial.
1. In the armrest cubby. hidden when installed, but the cord would have to hang out, and might be damaged by the lid constantly pushing on it
2. Glove Box. same issue with cords hanging out, but a better location for charging my son's gameboy, or my tablet. Obviously hard to reach, if needing to grab something while driving.
3. Window switch blanking plate. Perfect spot. The cord is out of the way, not likely to damage anything, and has a mostly factory look. Also easy to reverse if I decide that I don't like it there.

I bought a generic power outlet from my FLAPS. Went for the shortest/shallowest one they had. I have the extra lengths of wire and some butt connectors, tape and heat-shrink.



First I removed the console (5 screws), flipped it over, then removed the blank plate (3 screws.
Then I took a Post-It note, and made a template of the of the plate's face. Fold that template in half longways, unfold, then fold height-wise. Put the template back on the blank face. the intersection of the 2 folds is the center.
Drill a pilot hole with a small bit through your center mark. Remove the post it, and use a 7/8" bit to make your hole.
Push the insert through the front and tighten down the outer piece (from underneath) to lock it in place.
Re-attach the blank plate to the console.

I ended up with this:


Now I just need to run the power and ground wires, protect those connections and I'll be done.

I don't like cutting into my factory wiring, so I will be running a wire to the fuse box, and using an "Add-A-Circuit".
More to come tomorrow.

[maharaj]

Great idea. In addition to cutting into factory wiring they also make some jumpers that allow you to splice into the factory wiring without cutting it. Just a thought.

[Demon I Am]

I thought about those vampire taps. Would having 2 outlets working on one circuit cause any issues?

[SM16RMSM]

If your there at that point, find a source that is always hot = never have to turn the key to charge your phone again. My 93 was like that and I had to turn the ignition on just to charge the phone.

[Demon I Am]

that's what I was hoping to do by taping into the fuse box. Though, isn't there one in the radio harness? I don't have a radio, and the harness was hacked by the PO

[SM16RMSM]

I think your right. There should be a constant v12 source in the radio harness, just add a switch in between so you can manually turn in of when not in use.

[jnshk]

I mounted mine in the passenger footwell in the corner just below the glovebox. It's fairly inconspicuous but easily accessible. I was able to use existing holes/hardware to secure it in place. I wired it to constant 12v, but I also installed a kill switch under the A/C evaporator box. **You can ignore that black wire going beneath my carpet. That's a hookup for a backup camera which is currently not hooked up, so it's temporarily dangling into the footwell.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

I find it much easier to run a wire directly from the battery, through the tunnel and under the center console than to pull the radio out to tap into the harness or fuse box. It also has the benefit of not having to worry about too much draw from the radio harness or some other delicate circuit.

[jnshk]

I used an "add-a-fuse" on the fuse box and just ran the wire directly across (under the HVAC box) behind the dash, then ran a ground to one of the studs in the passenger footwell. Easy-peasy. No need to remove the radio or splice any factory wires (though I used some disconnects when I added the kill switch), and if you're flexible you don't even have to remove the access panel under the steering wheel.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

I like the add-a-circuit for some things like maybe a radar detector but given that they're around 8-10 bucks around here, it's just cheaper (i.e. free) and easier for me to run directly from the battery. May not matter to some but the add-a-circuit maxes at, 5-7 amps I think?

[RetroModern]

I think as long as you dont plug in anything like an DC-AC converter and power a hair dryer, most cig adapter accessories will do fine off the radio harness wire. However, I'm with YellowYata, the radio wire is rather thin and isn't really made for much voltage draw. I'd find a dedicated hot and run an in-line fuse rather than risk it.

[jnshk]

I like the add-a-circuit for some things like maybe a radar detector but given that they're around 8-10 bucks around here, it's just cheaper (i.e. free) and easier for me to run directly from the battery. May not matter to some but the add-a-circuit maxes at, 5-7 amps I think?

I get a discount on it, so the cost wasn't a huge factor for me (though I think you're right about them generally being on the pricey side). The one I used is rated for up to 10A, which is sufficient for my needs.

[Demon I Am]

Today, I ran a positive 14 ga wire to the battery, adding in an inline fuse junction 6 inches from the battery terminal. I ran a ground wire from a bolt on the fuel door release. Connected a spade connector to each line, then attached those to the positive and neg terminals on the outlet. I'll get photos tomorrow. Everything seems to be working perfectly, I just have to remember to disconnect the charger before leaving the car, as it has an LED light.

I stressed about this more than what was needed.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

Good job. Easier than imagined, huh? That little LED light shouldn't have any effect on the battery if you forgot it one night.