^ and which side the coil packs are on and that the 1.6 valve cover letters are engraved where as the 1.8 are extruded.
^ and which side the coil packs are on and that the 1.6 valve cover letters are engraved where as the 1.8 are extruded.
99 NB 1.8 cam cover letters are engraved as well.
Yah but the coil pack is on the other side.
That's what I heard as well, as long as the engine is same year or newer and have all the emission components, then it should be legit for smog. I'm pushing 160k on my engine. I figured it should last me a few track-days and last until I finish school. I was planning to have my original motor rebuilt by FM.However, I don't mind having the newer-better 99 motor and then stroke it.
08 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Tuned/Track Prepared
04 Z4 2.5 M Sport Package
01 SLK 230 Kompressor AMG Sport Package
This is correct but by "all emissions components" they mean the factory ECU and junky CA Pre-Cat as well. Before you get it smogged you have to go to the BAR Ref and get it approved or any smog shop that notices will turn you away. Not many can tell the difference between a BP-ZE or BP-4W, though. It's a gamble. For everywhere else in the US swaps are a bit easier.
To bring this back on topic, a few have referenced the BP4W exhintake. I've seen no numbers, just claims. Can anyone back this up with proof? I have a line on an exhintake setup for cheap. I will do it regardless, just want to get something solid.
Black '94 R Package, Red '99 Base, NFR '04 S2k
Post results once done, that idea is in the back of my head as well.
Yeah, I will. I dyno at a local Dynapack Hub so the numbers are much lower then a Mustang or Dynojet. Most are at 90-100whp and I/H/E cars are 5-10whp more. My NB was 107whp.
Black '94 R Package, Red '99 Base, NFR '04 S2k
Are dynapacks that much lower?
It's a soul crushing experience on a Dynapack. Not knowing anything my first time there, I was expecting 120-130whp on my NB. 107 was a kick in the face. Another local who has a built BP on E85 with all the goodies was no more than 150whp. Both of us are looking at around 15-20whp more on a Dynojet or Mustang.
For the FI guys, two friends have a FFS system on their '96 & '01. 170whp and 150whp respectively. Both tuned about as good as the card will get them.
Last edited by Massiah; 08-16-2013 at 02:50 PM.
Black '94 R Package, Red '99 Base, NFR '04 S2k
Ah, my stroker motor measured 175whp on a Dynapack; I'd read they are somewhat lower but I thought it might be just a few hp here or there.
My built engine only cracked 130 w/pump gas on the dynapack. Came back with even more power on a dynapack that was notorious for reading 15% lower than that one.. made 120 whp Healthy stock car w/MS on the same one did not crack 100hp.. so I figure a good 35% or so more than stock.. good enough for me.
Just another cracka azz cracka with an Old Beat up '97
Did the '99 exhintake swap on Sunday. No issues at all and fired right up on the first shot. Bit more aggressive idle but not by much. Low-Mid range expereinced no change. Top end feels like a few HP gain, especially above 6k where previously it felt like empty revs. I would really want an adjustable sprocket next time for fine tuning, I will probably do that + ECU next. Will see if I can get on a dyno before then.
Black '94 R Package, Red '99 Base, NFR '04 S2k
There is an AEM guru here in Denver (and an M.Net forum member) who found 20-25 lbs of torque on an NA with the AEM system. I will be using his services early next year, as soon as all the snow is gone. That includes dyno tuning and everything.
I do have a question, what is the best way to cam and keep the emisions clean; Mazdaspeed cam or exintake cam? How about cost effective?
Forgive the newb questions, but now that I'm tracking; I want more power, w/o a huge cash outlay.
96 Montego, replacing a 95M... I miss: My running peeps in Tampa, running barefoot @ Clearwater Beach and First Choice BBQ, in Brandon. In So Cal I miss: The Malibu Canyons, CA 33 and In & Out Burgers ! I'm from Tampa, if I was from Tampa Bay, I'd be a fish!