Tell me about cam shafts

[Andy]

^ and which side the coil packs are on and that the 1.6 valve cover letters are engraved where as the 1.8 are extruded.

[wannafbody]

99 NB 1.8 cam cover letters are engraved as well.

[Andy]

Yah but the coil pack is on the other side.

[BoBo]

I'm in PA and bought my car prebuilt. I know that the engine has to be a later model year than the car. The 1.6 and 1.8 are so similar that I doubt most would pick up the visual clues as to which are which. The only visual clue is the FM throttle body spacer.

That's what I heard as well, as long as the engine is same year or newer and have all the emission components, then it should be legit for smog. I'm pushing 160k on my engine. I figured it should last me a few track-days and last until I finish school. I was planning to have my original motor rebuilt by FM.However, I don't mind having the newer-better 99 motor and then stroke it.

[Massiah]

That's what I heard as well, as long as the engine is same year or newer and have all the emission components, then it should be legit for smog. I'm pushing 160k on my engine. I figured it should last me a few track-days and last until I finish school. I was planning to have my original motor rebuilt by FM.However, I don't mind having the newer-better 99 motor and then stroke it.

This is correct but by "all emissions components" they mean the factory ECU and junky CA Pre-Cat as well. Before you get it smogged you have to go to the BAR Ref and get it approved or any smog shop that notices will turn you away. Not many can tell the difference between a BP-ZE or BP-4W, though. It's a gamble. For everywhere else in the US swaps are a bit easier.

To bring this back on topic, a few have referenced the BP4W exhintake. I've seen no numbers, just claims. Can anyone back this up with proof? I have a line on an exhintake setup for cheap. I will do it regardless, just want to get something solid.

[wannafbody]

Post results once done, that idea is in the back of my head as well.

[Massiah]

Yeah, I will. I dyno at a local Dynapack Hub so the numbers are much lower then a Mustang or Dynojet. Most are at 90-100whp and I/H/E cars are 5-10whp more. My NB was 107whp.

[Pfunk]

Are dynapacks that much lower?

[Massiah]

Are dynapacks that much lower?

On this particular one its usually a difference of about 10-15 horsepower. It's definitely not a dyno for showing power if you're really concerned with numbers. Much better suited for tuning.

[Stealth97]

Are dynapacks that much lower?

Dynapacks are a heartbreaker. They are FANTASTIC for tuning though. Like massiah said, 10-15 hp (or more) lower than a Dynojet AKA "egojet"

[Massiah]

Dynapacks are a heartbreaker. They are FANTASTIC for tuning though. Like massiah said, 10-15 hp (or more) lower than a Dynojet AKA "egojet"

It's a soul crushing experience on a Dynapack. Not knowing anything my first time there, I was expecting 120-130whp on my NB. 107 was a kick in the face. Another local who has a built BP on E85 with all the goodies was no more than 150whp. Both of us are looking at around 15-20whp more on a Dynojet or Mustang.

For the FI guys, two friends have a FFS system on their '96 & '01. 170whp and 150whp respectively. Both tuned about as good as the card will get them.

[Pfunk]

Ah, my stroker motor measured 175whp on a Dynapack; I'd read they are somewhat lower but I thought it might be just a few hp here or there.

[Stealth97]

It's a soul crushing experience on a Dynapack. Not knowing anything my first time there, I was expecting 120-130whp on my NB. 107 was a kick in the face. Another local who has a built BP on E85 with all the goodies was no more than 150whp. Both of us are looking at around 15-20whp more on a Dynojet or Mustang.

For the FI guys, two friends have a FFS system on their '96 & '01. 170whp and 150whp respectively. Both tuned about as good as the card will get them.

My built engine only cracked 130 w/pump gas on the dynapack. Came back with even more power on a dynapack that was notorious for reading 15% lower than that one.. made 120 whp Healthy stock car w/MS on the same one did not crack 100hp.. so I figure a good 35% or so more than stock.. good enough for me.

[Massiah]

Did the '99 exhintake swap on Sunday. No issues at all and fired right up on the first shot. Bit more aggressive idle but not by much. Low-Mid range expereinced no change. Top end feels like a few HP gain, especially above 6k where previously it felt like empty revs. I would really want an adjustable sprocket next time for fine tuning, I will probably do that + ECU next. Will see if I can get on a dyno before then.

[The Driver]

The VVT motors have a fatter torque curve and lower top end than the non-vvt NB motors. The numbers don't seem like much, but driving them is a different story. That extra torque allows you to pull through corners and accelerate a bit easier without wringing the engine like, say a Honda motor. The extra torque and the delivery is really enjoyable.

There is an AEM guru here in Denver (and an M.Net forum member) who found 20-25 lbs of torque on an NA with the AEM system. I will be using his services early next year, as soon as all the snow is gone. That includes dyno tuning and everything.

I do have a question, what is the best way to cam and keep the emisions clean; Mazdaspeed cam or exintake cam? How about cost effective?

Forgive the newb questions, but now that I'm tracking; I want more power, w/o a huge cash outlay.